Galleria Borghese: Bernini and Caravaggio in a cardinal's villa
The Galleria Borghese is a small museum with a collection most large ones would envy, in the villa it was made for. You cannot walk in: every visit is booked for a set time.
- What it is
- Museum
- Time to allow
- 2 hours
- Cost
- Ticket, booked ahead
- Best time
- The first visit of the day
Rome this week
Why the Galleria Borghese is worth it
Cardinal Scipione Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and the most ruthless collector of his day. He built this villa at the edge of Rome in the early seventeenth century to hold what he had bought, been given and, more than once, simply taken. He was the first great patron of the young Bernini, and he owned more Caravaggios than anyone.
Much of what he gathered is still in the rooms he gathered it for. That is what makes the place: Bernini's sculptures stand where they were meant to stand, in the middle of the floor, to be walked round. Apollo and Daphne changes as you move, from a chase to a girl turning into a tree.
Because numbers are limited and visits are timed, it is never crowded the way the Vatican is. You have two hours and room to look.
What to see
Bernini's Apollo and Daphne
Finished in 1625, when he was in his twenties. Her fingers are becoming laurel leaves, so thin that the marble lets the light through.
The Rape of Proserpina and the David
Two more by Bernini. In the first, carved in 1621 and 1622, Pluto's fingers press into her thigh as if it were flesh. His David is caught in the act of throwing.
The Caravaggio room
Six paintings, from the early Boy with a Basket of Fruit and the Sick Bacchus to the late David with the Head of Goliath, where the severed head is the painter's own portrait.
Pauline Bonaparte and the picture gallery
Canova carved Napoleon's sister as Venus, half naked on a marble couch. Upstairs are Titian's Sacred and Profane Love and Raphael's Entombment.
How to do it well
- Reserve days ahead, weeks ahead in spring and autumn. There are no tickets for walk-ins when a slot is full, and most are.
- Arrive half an hour early to change your booking for a ticket and leave your bag. All bags, however small, go in the cloakroom.
- Start upstairs with the paintings while everyone else starts with the sculpture, then come down. You will have Bernini more nearly to yourself.
- The museum is in the middle of the Villa Borghese park, fifteen minutes' walk from the nearest metro. Leave time to find it.
- Afterwards, walk west through the park to the Pincio terrace for the view over Piazza del Popolo.
Where it is
Address
Piazzale Scipione Borghese, in the Villa Borghese park
Nearest station
Spagna or Barberini, on line A, then fifteen to twenty minutes on foot
Museums and sights nearby
- Trevi Fountain1.6 km
- Pantheon2.1 km
- Castel Sant'Angelo2.5 km
- Capitoline Museums2.5 km
Distances are in a straight line.
Tickets and tours: Galleria Borghese
Galleria Borghese: common questions
- Do you need to book the Galleria Borghese in advance?
- Yes. Entry is by reservation only, for a set time, and the number of visitors in each slot is limited. In high season the slots sell out days or weeks ahead.
- How long is a visit to the Galleria Borghese?
- Each visit lasts two hours, from the time on the booking. That is enough to see both floors without hurrying.
- What is the Galleria Borghese famous for?
- Bernini's sculptures, above all Apollo and Daphne and the Rape of Proserpina, Canova's statue of Pauline Bonaparte, and paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael and Titian.
- How much time do you need for the Galleria Borghese?
- Allow 2 hours. That is this site's estimate for an unhurried visit.
What visitors say about the Galleria Borghese
Rating from Google
Things to do near the Galleria Borghese
The nearest of this site's best things to do in the city. Distances are in a straight line.
- 14Watch the sunset from the Pincio550 m awayGarden, 1.5 to 3 hours, free
- 8Climb the Spanish Steps1.2 km awayMonument, 30 to 45 minutes, free
- 5Throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain1.6 km awayMonument, 20 to 40 minutes, free from the square, ticket for the basin
- 4Stand under the dome of the Pantheon2.1 km awayMonument, 30 to 45 minutes, ticket
Hotels near the Galleria Borghese
The five-star hotels closest to it, of those this site lists in Rome. Distances are in a straight line.
- Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel4.5Five-star hotel, Villa Borghese400 m away
- The Westin Excelsior4.4Five-star hotel, Via Veneto750 m away
- Baglioni Hotel Regina4.5Five-star hotel, Via Veneto800 m away
- Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese4.7Five-star hotel, Villa Borghese850 m away

